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Ancellm: Från Joy Division till Shinjuku catwalk – Gritty Galore Magazine
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Ancellm körde sin första runway i Shinjuku och temat var “reframing the appearance of aging.” De gjorde en hel kollektion på idén att kläder ser slitna ut, men på ett dyrt sätt.
De slipar, färgar och gnuggar tygerna tills de ser ut som att de blivit misshandlade av livet självt. Men det är inte naturligt slitage, det är “kontrollerad abrasion.” Alltså, de betalar för att någon med doktorandnivå i textilhistoria gör exakt samma sak som min tvättmaskin gör av misstag på 40 grader.
Och hela filosofin är japansk animism: kläderna ska kännas som att de bär på andar. Ja, självklart, för när jag ser en cardigan med trasiga kanter så tänker jag direkt: ”Där inne bor säkert ett spöke som lyssnar på Joy Division.”
Jag gillar dock idén, att sälja en “sliten look” som lyx. Punk gjorde samma sak gratis. Vi kallade det bara “livet.”
